Castello Della Castelluccia

( 4 stars , Rome , Italy )

A few miles from the center of Rome, immersed in the green hills overlooking the Veio Park, stands a castle that has watched the centuries pass without batting an eyelid. Regal and imperturbable, it has survived to the present, preserving all the mystery and magic of a legendary millennium wholly intact. "La Castelluccia" was initially built on the remains of a Roman villa of the Imperial era by the Cancellieri family over the period straddling the 12th and 13th centuries. In its eight hundred years of history, this splendid fortified edifice at the gates of ancient Rome was understandably coveted by the numerous families into whose hands it fell. To mention just a few, its past owners include the Muti, the Cenci, the ever-present Orsini, the Del Bufalo-Cancellieri, the Muti again in the late 16th century, the Odescalchi and the Boncompagni, and even the tenor Marconi. Scholars still delight in tracing the countless episodes in which the castle played a leading role with its numerous changes and additions over the years. La Castelluccia is inevitably steeped in legends given its extraordinary past, which includes a visit by Queen Christina of Sweden, attracted by the feats of Erasmo Tirabosco, a bizarre alchemist who lived here in the 17th century. Nor is there any lack of testimony to the presence of two ghosts, the noble shade of Nero and the specter of a lovelorn minstrel of the 18th century. These ghosts are still said to haunt the rooms of the castle, and no wonder, as Anglo-Saxons would remark with their characteristic sense of humor. Once you have experienced the regal hospitality of La Castelluccia, it really is hard to tear yourself away. Completely refurbished, restored to its ancient splendor, and converted into a hotel residence, the Castello della Castelluccia officially opened in March 2002, offering "contemporaries" the opportunity for a stay in the greatest of luxury surrounded by artworks, many of which date from the 16th century, and cosseted by the most modern and sophisticated forms of comfort. Set in its own magnificent grounds including a splendid Italian-style garden, La Castelluccia is an ideal spot to unwind just a few miles away from the frenzied bustle of the Eternal City. The 24 rooms available for guests are all different and bear the names of the families who lived in the castle and some of their illustrious guests, like Pope Pius VII, who stayed here in 1814. Furnished with fine antiques from the 15-19th centuries, many still feature original 18th-century four-poster beds. It is also by no means unusual to find a fresco in your room. Costly marble and terracotta floors constitute a perfect foil to expertly restored original materials in a painstakingly crafted union that avoids the contrast of old and new and seeks a homogeneity of style even encompassing the most modern technological facilities such as BOSE sound systems, modem connections and satellite TV. Two of the suites and four double rooms are entered from the garden, which enhances the feeling of privacy and intimacy that is already extremely strong here at La Castelluccia. A thing of rare beauty indeed is the three-story 12th-century tower offering an all-round view of the Roman countryside. The suite located at the top features 16th-century furniture, marble bathroom and fireplace, the ideal place for a romantic stay. Fully equipped to host sumptuous events, the Castello della Castelluccia has its own sophisticated restaurant with fireplace and a banqueting hall. The cuisine is typically Mediterranean with particular attention focused on raw ingredients from the Rome area. Ideal for an unforgettable wedding reception, the castle also has a small consecrated chapel and a cloister making it possible to hold exclusive nuptial ceremonies in the grounds. During the day guests can decide whether to have a round of golf at one of the four nearby courses. A large swimming pool is available together with a relaxation center featuring Turkish ba